"Nikko is Nippon"
 "Nikko is Nippon" is the slogan spread on posters throughout the town. How true.
Nikko is a quintessentially Japanese combination of a somewhat drab, often shabby, functional little mountain settlement, in which nestles a pay-to-view miracle of cultural achievement: a perfect illustration of how in Japan beauty is generally regarded as specialized and beyond, beneath which no-nonsense life must be lived. In this land of contrasts, Nikko offers the ultimate with its architectural representations of heaven floating over a burg of gray non-distinction.
Why you should go
Nikko is an approximately two-hour train ride on the Tobu line from Asakusa station in Tokyo, and can involve more than just a day trip. However, even if you are planning to visit that other famous repository of Japanese culture, Kyoto, a visit to Nikko is still highly recommended.
Whereas Kyoto is a flat, demure and regularly laid out city with something of a croquet lawn atmosphere, Nikko offers the contrast of Japan's most splendid - even gaudy - gestures of giddily high culture set in a serene and evocative mountain wilderness of gurgling streams, waterfalls, and towering forests. The unique combination of natural quietude and cultural opulence will stamp your Japan experience like few other sojourns will.
The main cluster of Nikko's cultural heritage is made up of several Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, housed often on the same premises. Set in a 424 hectare (1048 acre) domain, these institutions include between them a total of 103 buildings, nine of which are classified as National Treasures and 94 as Important Cultural Properties. Nikko's shrines and temple were registered as a World Heritage site by the World Heritage Committee in 1999.
Historical background
Nikko was established as a center of Buddhist religious activity during the 8th century thanks to the missionary zeal of the priest Shodo Shonin. Nearby Mt. Nantai was already an object of veneration for generations.
It was Shodo who, according to legend, overcame a series of challenges and climbed the mountain, bringing the teachings of Buddha to the area. Yet his achievement did not bring about the exclusion of the ancient native Shintoism, whose shrines remained and stood side by side with Buddhist temples.
Significant as Nikko was, its present fame dates back to comparatively 'recent' times, i.e. the year of the demise of the great unifier of Japan, the Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa (1542-1616). Nikko is north of the capital (now Tokyo, but then known as Edo) and, north being the direction from which demons are traditionally said to come, Ieyasu wanted to be enshrined as a god of the nation, protecting it from evil even in death.
Not only was Nikko located in an auspicious direction, but the 53rd abbot of Rinnoji Temple was very close to Ieyasu and, enjoying his confidence, was entrusted with the Shogun's remains. In accordance with Ieyasu's wishes, a small shrine was built at Nikko. It was his grandson Iemitsu Tokugawa who had the shrine rebuilt into the opulent masterpiece it is today: a monument not only to Ieyasu, but to the wealth and power of the Tokugawa family.
Nikko as a tourist attraction consists of (in order of proximity to the Shinkyo Bridge entrance) Rinnoji Temple; Toshogu - where Ieyasu Tokugawa is enshrined; Futarasan - a shrine to the gods of the area's holy mountains Nantai, Nyoho and Taro; and Taiyuin - where the renovator of Toshogu, Iemitsu Tokugawa, is enshrined.
From the Tobu line Nikko station to the Nikko temple and shrines (known as the "Nikko San'nai" area), it is a 5-minute bus or taxi ride, or a 20-minute walk. The bus station is right in front of the train station, and the road up to Nikko San'nai is the road you can see beyond the bus station.
The Nikko Information Center is a 5-minute walk up that road (route 119) and can be seen on your left. The best deal for visiting the shrines is a 1,300 yen set of tickets that will get you into Toshogu, Yakushido, Futarasan, and Rinnoji. This set of tickets is available from the green-roofed office at the right of the entrance to Toshogu. (Not available at the Nikko Tourist Office.)
Shinkyo - the Sacred Bridge, or 'Snake Bridge'
 From Nikko town as you near the shrine area, you will see the picturesque vermillion Shinkyo, or Sacred Bridge crossing the Daiya River.
It belongs to the Nikko Futarasan Shrine and has been a World Heritage Site since 1999. In a project spanning eight years: 1997 to 2005, no less than 800 million yen (over USD6.5 million) were spent restoring it.
It is said that the priest Shodo Shonin, the bringer of Buddhism to Nikko, unable to cross the river on his mission to climb Mt. Nantai, implored the gods for help. 
The god Jinjao appeared, cast down a pair of snakes from bank to bank which formed a bridge.
The leap from magic serpents to wooden bridge requires imagination, but it's still there and still spans the river.
A small shrine to Shodo's benefactor, the god Jinjao, is one of the first structures you come to after crossing it.
Unfortunately, however, it is not usually open to the public.
Walk a little further up and come face to face with the statue of Shodo Shonin himself.
Toshogu
 Although the first temple you come to from the Shinkyo Bridge direction is Rinnoji, it is recommended that you leave Rinnoji till later and head for the main shrine of Toshogu that lies on the rising ground directly behind it.
The main reason is that, as mentioned above, you can buy a discount ticket to enter nearly all the shrines and temples for only 1,300 yen from the green-roofed office at the right of the entrance to Toshogu. Also, if your time is limited, as a spectacle Toshogu gets priority.
Nikko's fame dates from 1617 when Toshogu, was built by the second Tokugawa Shogun, Hidetada. In accordance with the wishes of Ieyasu Tokugawa, whom it enshrines, it was built as 'a simple shrine'.
However, his grandson Iemitsu reconstructed it in 1636 in its present style, when 454,000 workmen and artisans labored for a year and five months, night and day, to complete the masterpiece that the temple is. This resting place of Ieyasu Tokugawa is the focal point of the whole of Nikko.
 The first structure of note once you ascend the steps and pass under the stone torii archway is the Go-juu-no-toh Five Storey Pagoda on your left. 36 meters (118 feet) high, it has a unique earthquake-resistant feature in the form of a 60cm (2 foot)-diameter pole hung internally from its fourth floor.
The original tower dated from 1650 but was burnt down in 1815. The present tower is a reconstruction from 1818. Check out the twelve Chinese zodiac signs carved around its first level.
 Proceed to, and present your ticket at, the shrine's outer gate, the Omote-mon ('Front Gate') with its fearsome 4m (13 foot) high Deva king guardians at the front, a pair of lions on the other side, and festooned with somewhat odd-looking golden elephants.
Note how one of the Deva kings has his his lips closed and the other his mouth open as if issuing a cry. This is a traditional dichotomy known as 'um' and 'ah' (the similarity to the English phrase denoting indecision being coincidental and unrelated) and can be found in many similarly paired likenesses of various characters and guardians.
 Immediately ahead of you on going through the Omote-mon Front Gate are the three San-Jinko Sacred Storehouses where costumes for spring and autumn festivitites and horseback archery gear is stored.
The two creatures depicted in carved relief on the end of the roof of the far left-hand storehouse are known as the 'imaginary elephants'. Toshogu's art director, Kano Tanyu, had never seen an elephant. Judge for yourself how he fared on hearsay alone!
 Just to the left of the Omote-mon gate is Toshogu's only largely unpainted bare-wood structure, the Shinkyusha Sacred Stable. Housing the horse used in worship of the gods (donated by the government of New Zealand), it is decorated with a carving of the three 'hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil' monkeys - it being traditionally believed that monkeys protected horses from disease. 
The sacred horse itself, 'Koha' (a New Zealand Maori name meaning 'gift'), can be seen here daily between 10am and 2pm.
 A little further on where the path turns to the right is the Omizuya lavabo (holy washing trough), dating from 1618, siphoning water up from the nearby river for worshipers at the Shrine to purify themselves with.
Its twelve granite pillars (not wood, to avoid rot by being splashed) support an ornate Chinese-style roof depicting waves and flying dragons.
Apart from the gold, the watery but brilliant colors are typical of the late 1500s Momoyama era.
Rinnoji
 Right behind the statue of Shodo is Rinnoji, the first main temple you approach from the Shinkyo Bridge direction. It is a temple of the Tendai sect of Buddhism.
Like all the temples in Nikko, it is said to have sprung from the Shihon Ryuji Temple founded by the father of Nikko, the priest Shodo Shonin, in 766.
Rinnoji's main structure, the Sanbutsudo (Three Buddha Hall) is said to be typical of Tendai Buddhism architecture and enshrines the 'Three Divine Manifestations of Nikko' awe-inspiringly represented in gilded wood: the Horse-headed Buddha, the Amida Buddha, and the Thousand-headed Buddha.
Rinnoji's Hobutsuden ('Treasure House') museum (not to be confused with the much bigger Hobutsukan Museum in the adjacent compound) is located in front of the Sanbutsudo, separated only by the carpark.
It is accessible for only 100 yen. However, a 300 yen ticket allows you to enter both the museum and its adjoining Shoyoen strolling gardens created over 300 years ago.
The Museum covers the 1,200 years of the temple's history. It includes, amongst other things, old karuta playing cards, masks from the Edo era, scrolls, folding screens, and implements used in Buddhist worship.
Nightlife & Eating Out
Most visitors staying overnight will probably be eating in their hotels. However there are restaurants around the station area and on the roads leading up to the Nikko San'nai area. Yuba - thin strips of tofu - is a specialty, and there is a local beer - Nikko beer.
Tourist Information
Tobu Nikko Station Information Center
Tobu Nikko Station
(0288 53 4511
Around Nikko
Nikko is part of Nikko National Park and the area includes some other worthwhile sites including the beautiful Chuzenji Lake and the spectacular Kegon Falls about 10km west of Nikko town.
There are also hot-springs at Yashionoyu onsen, Yumoto onsen and Kinugawa onsen.
Nikko Edo Village is a theme park for samurai dramas and ninja shows (shuttle bus from Shin-Takatoku station on the Tobu Kinugawa Line).
Access
Train
From Tokyo board the train at Asakusa station and take the Tobu-Nikko Line to Nikko. The time required differs a little on the kind of train you take. The tokkyu (Limited Express train) takes 1 hour 50 mins, and the kaisoku (Rapid) takes 2 hours.
IMPORTANT: Check beforehand with the station staff whether or not you need to change trains at Imaichi. Asking this question could save you hours.
To ask in Japanese: Imaichi (EE-MY-CHEE) de norikae no hitsuyo ga arimaska? or, better still, go here to print the question out in Japanese (as an image file , so doesn't require Japanese font capability) and simply show the printed question to the station staff.
For JR Rail Pass holders, an alternative route is by shinkansen (bullet train) to Utsunomiya (50 mins) and then a local JR train to Nikko (45 mins).
Nikko-Kinugawa Pass
Available from Tokyo Asakasa station - this 2-day pass includes train travel (though not the Express surcharge) to Nikko, bus travel between Nikko, Chuzenji Lake, Kinugawa onsen and Yumoto onsen, as well as boats and cable cars in these areas.
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