Japan City Guides: Hakone

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Hakone

How to get there

Bars, Restaurants, Clubs in Tokyo

• a mountainous area in Kanagawa prefecture
• about 80km (50 miles) southwest of Tokyo on the Tomei Expressway
• just north of the Izu Peninsula
• along with the Izu Peninsula, said to be Japan's most popular tourist destination
• historical rest and relaxation area for those making the journey between Kyoto (seat of the imperial Court) and Tokyo (seat of the Shogun)
• part of the mountain range featuring Mount Fuji, meaning onsen (hot springs) and fine views of Fuji-san
• departure point for hiking round Mt. Fuji
• numerous cultural and recreational facilities for all tastes and ages
• Hakone is made up of three mountains: Mt. Kamiyama (1,438m), Mt. Komagatake (1,327m) and Mt. Futago (1,091m)
• Hakone lies within the vast crater of an extinct volcano
• population 15,000

Hakone - everyone getting away from it all

For the visitor to Japan or a resident of the Kanto region, Hakone is the ideal getaway destination. Within a couple of hours from Tokyo by car or train, Hakone is an area blessed with mountainous natural beauty and bracing rural air. Full of natural hot springs (onsen), it is the ideal cold weather destination. Also, with its elevation, it is the perfect place to escape the sweltering greenhouse that is heavy, smoggy Tokyo in summer.

Be forewarned that this is where everyone escapes to, so, if driving, the earlier the departure the better. Be assured, however, that Hakone is big enough to afford everyone enough peace and solitude once off the beaten track.

An overview

Imagine a triangle with its tip pointing to the right and its base at the left. Hakone covers a vast roughly triangular area - the massive crater of an extinct volcano, in fact - that stretches from the town of Hakone-Yumoto at the right-hand point of the triangle out left to the roughly north-south aligned Lake Ashi, forming the triangle's base.

Right in the middle of the triangle is Mt. Komagatake (1,327m). The other two mountains within the area are Mt. Kamiyama (1,438m), and Mt. Futago (1,091m). The slopes of all three mountains are covered with spots emitting sulfurous gases and steam.

About half way along the top edge of the triangle is the town of Gora. Gora connects to the town at the top of Lake Ashi, Togendai-ko, by means of the Hakone Tozan Cablecar and then the Hakone Ropeway. A fake gaily painted pirate ship offers cruises down Lake Ashi to both adjacent towns at the lake's southern end, Motohakone-ko and Hakonemachi-ko. From there buses run back up to Gora (thus bisecting the triangle), or along the bottom edge of the triangle back to Hakone-Yumoto.

The area around Gora is where Hakone really 'happens'.

Hakone Open-Air Museum

Two stops before Gora on the Hakone Tozan line, at Kowakidani, is the Hakone Open-Air Museum: one of Hakone's must-sees. It features, among others, the huge sculptures of the British sculptor Henry Moore, and has its own dedicated Picasso Museum.

Fujiya Hotel

Three stops before Gora on the Hakone Tozan line, at Miyanoshita, is Hakone's grandest accommodation: the Fujiya Hotel. This elegant agéd hotel has hosted innumerable foreign dignitaries and celebrities since its founding in 1878.

Pola Museum of Art

A little west of Gora is the Pola Museum of Art is a gallery run by the Pola cosmetics company. Stylishly implanted into the surrounding scenery, it boasts some seriously great works of art, including Monet's Waterlilies, lots of Renoir (Japanese women, especially, adore the Impressionists) and has special exhibitions featuring artists and artistic movements of equal import, or at least considerable significance.

Komagatake Ropeway

About two thirds of the way down Lake Ashi, on its east bank, is Hakone-en, the first station of the Komagatake Ropeway. It goes all the way to Komagatake Peak. This is Hakone's most thermally active area. Stop off at the Peak station and walk up the short slope to where they boil eggs in the natural hot water. The shiny blackened product is on sale for 500 yen for six, the eating of which is said to prolong life by seven years!

Something for everyone

The map of Hakone is dotted with museums, halls and gardens offering something for everyone. Here is a list based on art, crafts, history and nature as a starting point for itinerary planning.

Art