Temples & Shrines: Ginkakuji Temple
Ginkakuji Temple (Silver Pavilion) 銀閣寺
- Wabi sabi elegance.
- Pinnacle of Muromachi art
- Located in northeast Kyoto.
- A World Heritage Site.
- Not actually covered in silver leaf.
- A must see.
- Also known as Jishoji.
- Rinzai Zen temple.
Restraint, elegance, wabi sabi. Ginkakuji is perhaps the pinnacle of Japanese artistic expression. Best known for its stone gardens (the Sea of Silver Sand built to reflect the moon) and simple buildings, this fifteenth century temple was originally a villa for the artistic Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa, a poor, inept ruler in a time of conflict and instability, but a great patron of the arts: Noh theater, the tea ceremony and ikebana (flower arranging). Yoshimasa lived here from about 1484 until his death in 1490. In accordance with his wishes, it was then converted into a Buddhist temple.
Located at the end/beginning of the Philosopher's Walk, Ginkakuji is discussed in detail in Donald Keene's book, Yoshimasa and the Silver Pavilion: The Creation of the Soul in Japan.
Ashikaga Yoshimasa, is said to have intended having the structure covered in silver leaf, in emulation of the gold-leaf covered Kinkakuji of which his grandfather was the patron. However, the disruptions of the Onin War meant that this feature was never realized—the name alone lives on as witness to the intention. The first storey was used as a residence, while in the upper floor of the temple in the Buddhist altar room or butsuma is a gilded figure of Kannon (the goddess of Mercy).
Mythical bird on the roof of Ginkakuji Temple
The Togu-do houses a tiny 4-and a half mat tatami room known as the Dojin-sai and designed by Murata Shuko (1423-1503). Said to be the oldest tearoom in Japan, its simple but classic design served as a model for many future tearooms. The room contains a sunken hearth and tokonoma alcove. A small corridor leads from here to the Roseitei—reproductions of the rooms used by Yoshimasa for incense-burning ceremonies. The Main Hall or Butsuden (Hall of the Buddha) contains an image of Sakyamuni (the historical Buddha) but is closed to visitors.
The stone gardens are thought to have been designed by master gardener Soami (1455-1525) and include a moss garden and a distinctive dry stone garden containing a large cone called the "Moon Viewing Platform" (kogetsudai) surrounded by an area of raked white sand representing a Chinese lake, called ginshadan. See photograph below.
View of the Silver Pavilion - Ginkakuji Temple - amongst autumn leaves
The "Moon Viewing Platform" (kogetsudai) at Ginkakuji Temple, eastern Kyoto
Keihan Demachiyanagi is the nearest station though a bus or taxi from there will save you a long walk, or alternatively bus #5 from Kyoto station, or the Raku Bus #102 or #100, also from Kyoto Station. Get off at the Ginkakuji-mae stop.
Bicycling along Philosopher's Walk is a good way to get to Ginkakuji, Anrakuji, Honen-in and Reikanji. All these temples can be visited in half a day's sightseeing.
Raked white sand at Ashikaga Yoshimasa's delightful Ginkakuji
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