Temples & Shrines: Kitano Tenmangu
Kitano Tenmangu Shrine 北野天満宮
Kitano Tenmangu, established in the tenth century, is dedicated to Tenjin, the patron saint of students, who flock here from all over the country to pray for success in examinations, especially high school and university entrance exams.
Stalls sell a vast array of things including antiques, ethnic goods from India, Thailand and Nepal, silver jewelry, tansu, kimono fabrics, plants, foodstuffs and plants.
Kitano Tenmangu is also famous for its plum blossoms which can be seen in their full glory usually in February or early March.
Tenjin-san Fleamarket and Tanabata Festival decorations at Kitano Tenmangu Shrine
A Plum Blossom Festival is held at the shrine on February 25 and has been for over 900 years to mark the death of Sugawara no Michizane. Geiko and maiko from the nearby Kamishichiken geisha district in Kyoto's Nishijin area conduct an open air tea ceremony on this day. Kitano Matsuri takes place here on August 4 and Zuiki Matsuri from October 1-4 when decorated floats are paraded through the local streets, the principal portable shrine (mikoshi) is made of zuiki (the stalks of taro), hence the name.
Kitano Tenmangu Shrine was built in honor of poet and scholar Sugawara no Michizane (845-903), an advisor to the emperors Uda and Daigo, who fell out of favor with the ruling Fujiwara clan and was exiled to Dazaifu in Kyushu, where he died.
Kitano Tenmangu was built to appease the scholar's supposedly angry spirit, following an outbreak of plague in the Kyoto and various misfortunes including thunderstorms and earthquakes that struck the capital and imperial family following Sugawara no Michizane's death.
Sugawara became deified as Tenjin, a deity of scholarship. There are now thousands of shrines dedicated to Tenjin throughout the country. Previously the Tenjin Shrine was dedicated to the god of thunder and the angry spirit of Sugawara no Michizane was thought to be manifested in the thunderstorms that hit Kyoto.
Visitors enter through a tall concrete torii gate at the main entrance on Imadegawa Dori guarded by two koma-inu (Lion dogs)and proceed up the path to the main shrine buildings to the north. The present structures were built on the orders of Toyotomi Hideyori (Hideyoshi's son and heir) and date from 1607. They include three ornate gates, the Main Hall (Honden) and an oratory. The cypress shingle roofs are a characteristic feature. The approach to the main shrine buildings are a number of stone oxen which relate back to the "Day of the Ox" in the Chinese calendar when the shrine was first dedicated to the god of thunder.
The treasures of Kitano Tenmangu include nine illustrated scrolls of the shrine painted by Yukumitsu Tosa in the 14th century and three scrolls by his descendant Mitsuoki Tosa dating from the early Edo Period. The treasure house is open on the 25th of each month to coincide with the flea market.
On November 26 each year the Ochatsubo Hokensai (Tea Festival) is held at the shrine to remember Toyotomi Hideyoshi's famous tea party at Kitano shrine, when he invited the entire world to attend.
Admission Free; 5:30am-5:30pm
Tel: 075 461 0005
Kitano Tenmangu Access
Kitano Tenmangu is on Imadegawa, one street east of Horikawa. Bus #50 from Kyoto station: #59 from central Kyoto; #201 from Keihan Demachiyanagi. The Kitano Tenmangu shrine is also a short walk from the Kitano Hakubaicho terminus on the Keifuku line, Nishijin Textile Center and the nearby Hirano Shrine. Kinkakuji is also a short walk to the north past Waratenjin Shrine.
There are a number of popular restaurants and shops outside the main entrance on Imedagawa and along the road that runs on the eastern edge of the shrine grounds.
Bicycle is an easy way to visit Kitano Tenmangu and the nearby Hirano and Waratenjin shrines. Kinkakuji is a few minutes' ride north of Waratenjin.
Tenjin-san Flea Market
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